This old-but-modern hotel welcomes with a bar leading to a spacious dining room (where some tables overlook Robertson Park) and a shaded beer garden beyond. The menu is modern Australian with daily board specials, including local beef. There's simple lusciousness in an entree of caponata and melted bocconcini spread on warm ciabatta. The manager suggests grilled field mushrooms on olive focaccia with truffle oil and rocket: a dish of strong flavours, more satisfying if you focus solely on the rich, juicy mushrooms. Good to see boutique ciders are edging onto the extensive local wine list.