Six plastic-covered tables and a lonely chandelier do little to inspire, but the food and friendly service impresses, with a welcome plate of six dips and bread offered after ordering. New owners are attentive and eager to please. Expect generous servings of fluffy rice topped with skewers of marinated chicken and lamb. Locals come for zereshk polo ba morgh, a winning combination of sour berries, sugar and saffron rice piled over chicken. Desserts include rosewater saffron ice-cream and faloodeh, an Iranian lemon sorbet with noodles. One of the wall posters advertises the Garden of Earthly Paradise. Indeed it is.