Sydney’s only hatted Sri Lankan restaurant is closing. Hop to it to eat one last hopper
O Tama Carey calls time on her Lankan Filling Station in Darlinghurst, which was awarded a hat in every edition of the Good Food Guide during its seven-year run.
After seven years of non-stop hoppers, fiery, fragrant curries and spice-laden sambols, celebrated Sri Lankan restaurant Lankan Filling Station is preparing to close. “At this stage, there is no exact end date, but it will be soon, perhaps the end of winter,” chef and owner O Tama Carey said in a statement.
Carey opened Lankan Filling Station in a tiny, narrow space on Riley Street in Darlinghurst in 2018 following two years of market stalls and pop-ups.
The restaurant quickly became known for its signature dish: hoppers – lacy-edged, bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice and coconut, designed to be torn and swiped through tamarind-spiced black curry or slow-simmered coconut lentils.
The venue was awarded a hat in every edition of the Good Food Guide during its operation, with the 2025 Guide describing it as “a celebration of spices”, praising the depth and complexity across the menu – from playful snacks to rich curries.
“I can’t even begin to imagine how many hoppers have been cooked here, the amount of spices that have been toasted and the onions sliced,” Carey said.
“We have changed, adapted and grown. We lived through COVID and the general chaos that comes with a restaurant. We have dealt with superior suppliers, worked with many talented and lovely people, and served, fed and beveraged (sic) so many of you, our excellent customers.”
While Carey has confirmed the restaurant’s closure, she’s also hinted this isn’t the end of the story. “In Sri Lanka, one doesn’t say goodbye,” she said. “Instead, there is a beautiful phrase which translates to ‘I will go now and come back later’. Saying goodbye is far too final and dramatic – which, in this instance, suits me perfectly.”
The venue will continue to trade as usual over the coming weeks. “Hoppers will still be cooked, lunches and takeaway will continue, crab curry Sundays may make a reappearance, our curry powders will still be stocked and old favourite dishes will make a comeback.”
Fans of Carey’s food are encouraged to visit in the final weeks and celebrate the restaurant’s legacy. Her second cookbook, Lankan Filling, will be released on September 30 − allowing the spirit of the restaurant to live on long after the final hopper is served.
Erina Starkey – Erina is the Good Food App Editor for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age. Previously, Erina held a number of editing roles at delicious.com.au and writing roles at Broadsheet and Concrete Playground.