If 'bistro' rings your alarm bells, be reassured that Bistro Ceello is no cliche festooned with blackboard menus and Art-Nouveau posters. For a start, it's housed in an attractive, old-style, verandah-ed country cottage. Then there's chef Scott Want's food. It's not contemporary dainty but generous and gutsy; flavours are big, portions are big and it is as true to tradition as it is stylish in its own right. The menu is a roll-call of dishes that either never have or never will go out of fashion. Consider two lamb creations. chargrilled backstraps on creamy polenta with ratatouille and roasted garlic aioli, and a four-hour braised chermoula shank with smoky eggplant, pomegranate, tomatoes and mint labna. After dishes like these, you might as well give in to the ultimate brulee, with prunes poached in Pedro Ximenez and pistachio biscotti. This is comfort food in a comfortable setting, with lots of Orange wines to contemplate.