Every now and then, a cafe comes along that is a game-changer for the entire neighbourhood. For Gymea, that was BiancoNero Espresso. The sleek interior, unflappable staff, reasonably priced food and serious coffee set a new standard for the area three years ago. George Gourlas has reconfigured the streetwise space near the station to include a breezy outdoor deck and an underground espresso bar. Take the commuter edge off with a double espresso ($4) that has fine acidity, an earthy flavour and a port-like finish, or wolf down a herb-scented scrambled egg and bacon panini. BiancoNero also has an offshoot at 36 St Pauls Street, Randwick.