In what's fast becoming Thornbury's most vibrant strip, Umberto has established itself as a local gem. Full of good cheer, owner Marco Finanzio has created a cosy modern version of the traditional espresso bars he once frequented with his father, Umberto. The food is humble and full-flavoured, a hearty lamb and lentil stew exemplifying the menu's rusticity. Try home-made pasta with a slow-cooked veal ragu or a traditional marinara with wine and garlic. Breakfast dishes such as poached eggs with chipolata lend old favourites an Italian twist. Coffee is perfecto, but dessert defies all expectation: cinnamon panna cotta with orange and pistachio praline is one seriously classy finale.