St Kilda is on the cusp of an Italian renaissance. On the heels of Karen Martini’s Mediterranean takeover at Saint George and Rinaldo Di Stasio’s announcement of a forthcoming art gallery above a revived Cafe Di Stasio, Carlton institution D.O.C has moved into the neighbourhood.

“Hopefully, the three of us bring it back to where it should be,” says D.O.C director Michael Costanzo, who remembers a time when St Kilda was “the area to be”.

“There were amazing restaurants and bars … we want to bring that Italian flavour back.”

There’s plenty of that at D.O.C’s sixth restaurant, a swish 100-seater in the Saint Moritz apartment complex on the St Kilda foreshore. But the kitchen isn’t limiting itself to the traditions D.O.C built its name on.

“I think it’s something St Kilda is crying out for.”

Michael Costanzo, Director D.O.C

While the sought-after Neapolitan pizzas, home-style lasagne and classic tiramisu remain, there’s a greater focus on dishes that reflect the progression of Italy’s dining scene, including the use of global flavours. See the Spring Creek barramundi crudo, and bucatini alle vongole featuring nori butter and white miso alongside Goolwa pipis. That genre-crossing rendition was informed by executive chef Tom Jones-Davies’ Welsh upbringing and his memories of fishing for clams and harvesting seaweed with his dad.

The menu also finds room for campanelle (a short, ruffled pasta) with duck and Montenegro ragu; agnolotti pasta parcels filled with veal, pork loin and rabbit; and a seaside-appropriate fritto misto with Hawkesbury River calamari, Skull Island prawns and Port Lincoln sardines. Desserts include house-made balsamic and grilled peach gelato.

The space hasn’t changed much since its days as fine diner Loti, save for the hulking new pizza oven and artwork by Kate Florence, whose pieces adorn every D.O.C venue.

A separate bar area will serve snacks such as oysters, montanarina (mini fried pizzas) and potato croquettes with mortadella mousse. Pair them with a signature cocktail, which are all named after D.O.C. venues, such as The Carlton (made with Campari, lemon, balsamic and soda), or order a wine off the Italo-leaning list.

“We want to move onto the next level,” Costanzo says. “Service will be elevated, it’s not as casual as our other places. It’s untried waters for us, but I think it’s something St Kilda is crying out for.”

Open Mon-Thu 5pm-late, Fri-Sun noon-late from Thursday, March 14.

14-16 The Esplanade, St Kilda, docgroup.net