This treasure trove of Italian comestibles, in which crammed deli fridges fight for space with timber tables and chairs, could cause Italophiles to switch suburbs. The array of foods-to-go is astonishing, and the house-made pastas and sauces are inspiring. The daily menu appears on brown paper hung high on a wall. Succumb to nurturing stracciatella or dazzling eggplant and diavoletto (chilli mozzarella) bruschetta, then, tortelli stuffed with ricotta and gorgonzola and fresh pear nuggets, topped with grilled prosciutto and paddling in a burnt thyme butter. Espresso zabaglione, a legendary restorative, is served both for breakfast and dessert.