This imposing Victorian building oozes relaxed Mediterranean style. Beneath a canopy of vine leaves, or amid the rough-hewn glamour of the modern concrete and wrought-iron interior, you can feast on a platter that might feature Holy Goat cheese and bullboar sausages with red-onion relish; balsamic-glazed venison kofta alongside heirloom carrots, and fluffy doughnuts drizzled with lemony syrup.