Visits to the Victorian-era Pentridge Prison, closed in 1997, look decidedly different now that Olivine wine bar occupies one wing of the former B division. The 100-seat bar, which opened on April 14, is split between a central atrium with soaring walkways once patrolled by guards, and a dozen or so jail cells that now house green velvet banquettes, contemporary art and a wine cellar.

Olivine is the first part of an upscale hospitality precinct that TFE Hotels is building around its Adina Apartment Hotel, with North and Common restaurant to open in May. The 170-year old prison, in the hands of developers since 1999, is now home to apartments, shops, a cinema and artist studios, with more to come.

Bluestone walls and original cell doors and windows at Olivine make it hard to forget where you are: a moody atmosphere is baked into the space, which, after four years of building, can now accommodate 100 guests at low tables and armchairs in jewel tones. Cells can be made even more private by drawing a velvet curtain.

Liinaa Berry, formerly sommelier at Sequoia Lodge (Mount Lofty, South Australia), is in charge of the wine program across the precinct. But it’s at Olivine that she’s been able to pour herself into a 500-bottle list she’s confident will broaden people’s knowledge, despite it being dubbed the wine book.

“This book should not make people feel intimidated because they don’t feel like they know about wine.”

A “preface” includes wines by the glass while the “synopsis” contains 150 wines organised by style such as bright, elegant or rich. She is excited to showcase “hidden treasures” she’s found that offer great value compared to cult producers.

A succinct menu keeps things firmly in snack territory. Expect scallop tarts with yuzu emulsion and tomato powder in a brik pastry shell, charred cucumbers and cashew cream on a base of sunflower pesto, or potato roesti with taramasalata.

Chef Thomas Woods (ex-Woodland House, Jacques Reymond) wrote the menu but this week announced his departure. New recruit Mark Glenn brings a CV that includes Canberra’s Pialligo Estate, Cumulus Inc. and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.

Berry says it’s thrilling to work in such a storied building. “You’re given a project that means something. It’s not just another venue.”

She expects interstate visitors will have the new Pentridge on their list of must-see destinations, with the hospitality venues offering a new way, beyond the prison tours, to experience the building’s history and imposing architecture.

Open Sun-Thu 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-1am

1 Pentridge Boulevard, Coburg, 03 9100 9116, olivinewinebar.com.au