“For how close it is to the city, how close it is to [Queen Victoria Market], public transport and the universities, it’s crazy there hasn’t been more going on in North Melbourne,” says Austin Kangket, co-owner of new Queensberry Street hang-out Bear’s Wine Bar.

He’s part of a new cohort of young-gun hospitality operators who say they see untapped potential in North Melbourne, spurring them to set up shop in the postcode. It mirrors the recent, unexpected boom of cafe and restaurant openings in West Melbourne.

While not devoid of dining and drinking options, pubs in particular, North Melbourne has historically been short on those worth travelling for – more a place to pass through on the train or bypass altogether in favour of spoilt-for-choice Carlton or the CBD.

But jewels in its culinary crown, such as much loved (albeit now closed) cake shop Beatrix Bakes and hatted Mauritian restaurant Manze, have paved the way for a slow but steady stream of newcomers in the past 18 months. They’re the kind of venues any neighbourhood would be happy to have, and locals have quickly embraced their relaxed, casual vibes.

Sean Then, owner of Wreckyn Street’s new Japanese-inspired Cafe Tomi, says time spent working at the popular Le Bajo Milkbar and 279 nearby gave him confidence in the area.

“[Operators] have spread out of the city because it’s really compacted and competitive. Here it is so close, but so different. Everything suddenly slows down.”

Kangket, a North Melbourne resident, also favours the pace: “It feels like a country town with how big the roads are and how quiet it is, but there’s enough going on as well.”

He says an influx of young people and families in the suburb has contributed to demand for a greater variety of spots to eat and drink. And there’s a real hunger for more, according to the mostly local clientele at Bear’s Wine Bar, which Kangket runs with sommelier friend Nathan Schofield. The pair met while working at Supernormal on Flinders Lane.

“Our [bar’s] identity is changing as we figure out what the neighbourhood wants,” says Kangket. Natural wines and longnecks served in ice buckets appeal to younger punters, while the classically charged bottle list keeps the area’s older demographic top of mind.

For Lune Croissanterie and Wild Life alumnus Sam Iversen, who recently opened Bobby’s Bakery on Dryburgh Street, settling in North Melbourne was primarily about landing the “perfect” warehouse space to convert.

But the suburb’s accessibility as a major train junction was also a strong selling point; his minimalistic bakehouse is a quick walk from the newly finished Arden Station, and he hopes to optimise on foot traffic once it’s up and running.

Carving out a niche has pulling power, too. The British-born Iversen, a purist, bakes plump Cornish pasties in accordance with the Cornish Pasty Association’s strict recipe.

Already, “A lot of Brits travel here for them,” he says. “There’s someone from Dandenong and someone else from two hours’ away who bought 10 at once last time.”

North Melbourne newcomers

Bear’s Wine Bar

Warm and welcoming for punters from all walks of life, Bear’s is exactly what a neighbourhood wine bar should be. There’s a gamut-running wine list, penny-pinching pint-sized cocktails and chicken-salt potato cakes beckoning to be dunked in gravy.

502 Queensberry Street, North Melbourne, bearswinebar.com.au

Cafe Tomi

Inspired by Tokyo’s coffee shop-listening bar Swamp, airy loft cafe Tomi spins dulcet jazz on vinyl while mixing inventive iced coffees with cocktail-like precision. To eat? Matcha panna cotta and sweets from a roster of local bakeries.

11 Wreckyn Street, North Melbourne, cafetomi.com

Bobby’s Bakery

From star-shaped pastries dusted in cinnamon sugar to true-to-tradition Cornish pasties, and loaves made with a rye sourdough starter, Bobby’s is a strong debut for a baker with Lune and Wild Life cred.

207 Dryburgh Street, North Melbourne, bobbysbakery.com.au

Pour Diane

Far from cookie-cutter, this wine wonderland is a ’70s time warp. Curl up on the circular tiger-print sofa bed with an interesting, minimal-intervention bottle plucked off the wine wall. Fun fact: owners Andy and Tina Buchan are also winemakers.

472 Victoria Street, North Melbourne, instagram.com/pourdiane

Lumen People

A ray of light for the strip, the team at this hybrid cafe-wine bar nails double duty. Go for coffee and a fancy brekkie bun, or a cocktail with salty, produce-powered small plates.

Shop 2A/520 Victoria Street, North Melbourne, lumenpeople.com

Austro Bakery

The stellar South Melbourne baker has moved north to sell its loyally loved pastries and cakes with a central European edge, plus slabs of focaccia from Beatrix Bakes’ former production kitchen.

39 Lothian Street, North Melbourne, austrobakery.com

Rosso Coffee Experience

Why just order your coffee when you can learn how to brew it yourself? Specialty roaster Rosso’s experiential new location has a make-your-own-coffee bar where pro baristas teach tricks of the trade.

117 Dryburgh Street, North Melbourne, rossoroastingco.com.au