Carlton's Brunetti Classico has just added a gelato shop next door to its imposing Lygon Street cafe-restaurant, giving the enormous cabinet of flavours room to grow.

"It's always been a question mark where we put the gelati counter," says owner Fabio Angele, explaining that it's moved several times, with varying sales results, since Brunetti renovated the 2000-square-metre site in 2013.

But the move into a neighbouring shop – a travel agent that became a pandemic casualty – represents Brunetti's gelato coming full circle.

"Where we are now is where Brunetti started in 1974 and that's where the gelati was first made," Angele says. "It's part of our DNA."

From 12 flavours back then, Brunetti Classico Gelato Bar today offers more than 40, with Italian staples like blood orange or stracciatella (shaved chocolate) complemented by contemporary scoops, including vegan choices. Think caramel cheesecake, Biscoff or berry pavlova.

Granita fans can choose from lemon, coffee, almond or strawberry; or make like a true Sicilian and get yours with house-baked brioche on the side. Gelati cakes, cannoli filled with gelato, and gelato on sticks (stecco) are also in the works.

The shop is as glamorous as its older sibling, with terrazzo, marble and stucco finishes and touches of blush pink and brass. A large window shows the gelatiere (gelato makers) at work.

When the local council completes a permanent parklet extension, the gelateria and neighbouring cafe will feel like they're part of a bluestone piazza, according to Angele. For now, a few tables with umbrellas are offered.

Brunetti Classico is the name for this Brunetti site and those at Melbourne Airport after a split between Fabio and brother Yuri Angele last year. Yuri's portion of the business is now known as Brunetti Oro and includes Flinders Lane.

Open Mon-Thu & Sun 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat 10am-midnight

366 Lygon Street, Carlton, 03 7034 7066, brunetticlassico.com.au