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Sydney's Chinatowns hope to bounce back in the Year of the Rabbit

Bianca Hrovat
Bianca Hrovat

Bouncing back: Diners are flocking to Burwood Chinatown precinct.
Bouncing back: Diners are flocking to Burwood Chinatown precinct.Wolter Peeters

As Asian restaurateurs usher in Lunar New Year, Burwood Chinatown is emerging from the pandemic as a key destination for Sydneysiders seeking novel, inexpensive food experiences.

The resumption of travel from China, the return of international students and a growing appetite for Asian food are expected to bring prosperity to both of Sydney's Chinatowns this year.

"It's an improvement on pre-COVID times," said Burwood Chinatown chief executive officer Gina Liros. "We've come back strong."

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The foodie shift from the CBD to the inner west coincided with remote work's rise, said Hannah Yang, owner of Korean street food store Seedney Hotteok.

Yang opened her first Australian store at Burwood Chinatown in December, after six months of market research.

"The city was one of the busiest places in Sydney before, but when COVID began people started spending a lot more time in the suburbs," she says.

Friends gather at Burwood Chinatown to experience novel dishes such as dango mochi sticks and hotteok, a filled pancake.
Friends gather at Burwood Chinatown to experience novel dishes such as dango mochi sticks and hotteok, a filled pancake.Wolter Peeters

"While Haymarket Chinatown was taking more time to recover, Burwood Chinatown grew up and developed a lot."

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The precinct recently doubled its number of eateries to 55, offering cuisines from China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan and beyond. It now attracts an average of 80,000 customers a week.

"Burwood has allowed us to introduce hotteok [a bread-like pancake with fillings such as sausage, cheese and ice-cream] to a diverse range of people who come here to enjoy the food and the culture," Yang says.

Korean-style hotteok from Seedney Hotteok in Burwood.
Korean-style hotteok from Seedney Hotteok in Burwood.Supplied

The area's neon lights, hawker-style food stalls and eye-catching dishes were designed with social media in mind.

Roji Monster's pastel purple taro monster ice-cream (complete with googly eyes) and Lemochi's stretchy dango mochi sticks made from glutinous rice garner tens of thousands of views on TikTok and Instagram.

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"Customer flow is very good, especially young customers," said Bella Wu of pastry shop Lelesu. "The whole complex feels full of energy and life.

Kevin Cheng, co-founder of not-for-profit group the Soul of Chinatown, says Haymarket Chinatown could learn from Burwood Chinatown's approach.

"It's great to see what's possible," he said. "[They] demonstrated a new way of thinking and doing things in terms of activating the space, but also with their mix of tenancies.

"But from our point of view, there's only one Chinatown. [Haymarket] is the original. This is where the Chinese Australians came to settle and build their lives. It's got that history and charm and romanticism that nowhere else has."

Haymarket was hit hard by the pandemic, losing iconic restaurants such as Golden Century, Marigold and BBQ King.

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"As of now, we have not fully recovered … Chinatown is definitely not like it used to be," said Alan Chu, the second-generation owner of Mother Chu's Taiwanese Gourmet. "The atmosphere has changed significantly … it's much quieter."

Cheng expects the resumption of Air China flights on February 4 and the start of the university semester in March to bring better times.

At Chinese hot pot restaurant Spice World, there are strong signs of an impending recovery. While average trade remains at 70 per cent, the 240-seat Haymarket restaurant was fully booked over the first weekend of the Lunar New Year.

"I can tell things are getting better," says franchise owner Nick Liu. "The night market on Fridays is attracting more and more people. When you compare how it was last year to how it is now, it's night and day."

Where to celebrate Lunar New Year in Sydney

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Burwood Chinatown

Giant inflatable rabbits and Sydney celebrity Danny Lim (appearing as the God of Wealth) will greet visitors at the Burwood Chinatown Lunar New Year festivities on Sunday. From 3pm, there will be pop-up market stalls to check out, offering everything from giant scallion pancakes to braised beef offal.

3pm-late, Sunday, January 22; 121-133 Burwood Road, Burwood

The Star Sydney's LNY Festival of Abundance

The Star is kicking off Lunar New Year with spectacular visual displays, including an oversized bunny statue and Aqualume, a live aerial performance inspired by the Year of the Rabbit. Special menus are available at Sokyo, Black and Flying Fish, including a ultra-luxe sashimi platter for $888.

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January 21-February 5; 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont

Lunar New Year at Darling Square

Chinatown's neighbour is celebrating with murals, lion dancers and food specials. Iiko Mazesoba has created a rabbit parfait with matcha or houjicha gelato, served with red bean and shiratama rice balls, while Xing Fu Tang are topping each of their bubble teas with panna cotta rabbits.

January 19-February 5; 35 Tumbalong Boulevard, Haymarket

Cabramatta Lunar New Year

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Lunar New Year festivities offer a chance to head west and sample some of Sydney's best regional Chinese and Vietnamese dishes. Expect fireworks, Hello Kitty meet-ups and dragon dancers roving through Arthur Street, where there will be a number of food stalls selling snacks.

11am-late, February 4; Arthur Street, Cabramatta

Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/sydneys-chinatowns-hope-to-bounce-back-in-the-year-of-the-rabbit-20230120-h29as4.html