With pinchos edging onto Sydney menus with accelerating frequency, many diners are still asking what exactly it is.

"Something you skewer or spike. The exact translation is 'to pierce'," chef Justin North explains.

North and head chef Luca Guiotto have driven stakes into all manner of edibles on the menu at Mister Percy, which opens its doors in Pyrmont this week.

The wine bar has broadened its initial focus from San Sebastian to a wider coastal Mediterranean brief.

Sydneysiders don't live on skewered food alone, so the chefs also offer dishes such as yellowfin tuna crudo with crushed peas.

North agrees there's a definite "green theme" to the look of many of the dishes, with a bocconcini and crushed broad bean dish its luminous pin-up.

Named after Percy Ewart, the former wool classer whose name is etched, early-graffiti-style, in the sandstone of the building, the Mister Percy space has been designed by Luchetti Krelle.

North is a fan of what they've done, particularly some of its quirky touches. "There's loads of antiques, some with marbled panelling on them," he says.

Working with his Concept Hospitality partner Will Talbot, North has transformed the food and wine venue for owner Girish Jhunjhnuwala.

The Hong Kong-born hotelier has been aggressive in Australia with the Ovolo brand, snapping up properties from Woolloomooloo to Canberra.

Open Mon-Sat 5pm-11pm (kitchen closes at 10pm); Sunday 5pm-10pm (kitchen closes at 9pm).

139 Murray Street, Pyrmont, 02 8586 1888, misterpercy.com.au