Josh Niland's Murray cod and gravy roll with skin and stuffing is finally rolling up to the starting grid. After nearly two months of lockdown delays, the hatted chef will open Charcoal Fish on Wednesday, September 15.

The Rose Bay concept – the seafood equivalent of a charcoal chicken shop – was set to open mid-July, but specialist tradesmen weren't allowed to travel to the building site.

"People who cut certain types of marble and do the joinery [couldn't get here]," says Niland. "But now it's finished, I'm so pleased with it. There's even a window in the cool room so customers can see in."

While locals will finally be able to tuck into a double yellowfin tuna cheeseburger, Niland says delays gave him time to consider the non-seafood part of the menu.

"If seafood is the brick, the vegetables and salads are the mortar. So many local suppliers and farms are feeling the pinch, we want to support them. We won't be skimping," he says.

Niland has also given consideration to the business model: "We want to make it as accessible as it can be [with family packs that also include pickles and baps]. Four people can eat for $60 or $70."

Niland and his wife Julie, who brought sexy back to seafood at fine diner Saint Peter and its casual cousin Fish Butchery, will also roll out Murray cod wings with tamarind hot sauce and cod fish-and-chips with yoghurt tartare. While initially takeaway only, eventually there will be 26 seats to jockey for.

Open Wed-Sun noon-3pm and 5pm-8.30pm.

670 New South Head Road, Rose Bay, charcoalfish.com