As smoke billows under the glass cloche, we can just make out the small morsels of pork rib sitting on sprigs of spiky rosemary. “Barbecue – people think it’s the easiest thing there is, but it’s actually one of the hardest,” says Tom Goetter, as he presents the next course in our degustation dinner.

The Scenic Eclipse’s executive chef goes on to explain just how complicated barbecue can be, outlining the days of intensive steaming, smoking and blast chilling to which the pork ribs have been subjected. When he asks us to eat the meat with the wooden tongs provided – because contact with stainless steel takes the flavour away – it seems the least we can do.