The spray from the thundering Kjosfossen waterfall fills my eyes, but there’s no mistaking what I’m seeing. On a rocky outcrop maybe 200 metres up the verdant cliff-face from the train station viewing platform, a blonde-haired figure in a flowing red dress is leaping and twirling, arms in the air, disappearing out of sight before popping up again.

“It’s Huldra, the seducer,” says the guard on our little green train. “She has a cow’s tail, you know.”