Two fishing villages at either end of the Bay of Marseille guard the city’s coastline like a pair of crab claws. At the northern edge of the seafront is L’Estaque, with its bohemian artistic past; at the southern limits is Les Goudes, which looks set for an increasingly bourgeois future.

For generations, both have been popular day-trips for the Marseillais, but today, the villages are drawing a more Parisian crowd.