An after-dark arrival, it turns out, is not the ideal start to a stay at Buahan, a Banyan Tree escape. It is not just that you miss out on the magnificent view that greets new arrivals: over the jungle and across to one of Bali’s sacred peaks. If you are anything like me, a 90-minute nocturnal drive there from the airport is enough to cause second thoughts.

The idea of a resort that invites nature in, with no walls and no doors on your accommodation, sounds appealing when you are stuck in a big city. But driving through the tropical night alive with the sounds of frogs and insects, I start to wonder just how wild this experience is going to get.