Roughly halfway up the steep hill that encapsulates most of the town of Bar in Montenegro, stretching from the waterfront to the foot of Mt Rumija, is an old olive tree. Or more accurately, the old olive tree.
Bar is full of olive trees – at around 100,000 there are twice as many of them as there are people. They grow wild in every meadow alongside tumbling roses and pomegranate trees, usually with a ginger cat or two asleep at their base.