Spray flies as the speed boat banks, and above us, the buckled, rusty cliffs of the Carr Boyd Range bear witness to our passage up long, narrow Lake Kununurra, part of the massive Ord River system in the east Kimberley.
When the tour boat slows, we spot a baby freshwater crocodile. A tiny jacana bird strides across water lilies, and high in a rocky crevice, a rock-wallaby snoozes.