″If it all goes pear-shaped, we’re in it together,” says chef Tim Bourke, slicing Redlove apples. The fruit’s flesh is tomato-red, its scent tangy.

These centrepieces of our olive oil cake with apples and rosemary have travelled a short distance from a nearby orchard to the kitchen bench; the verjuice in which we are about to poach them has had a briefer journey still: it’s from the shelves of Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop, which I can spy through the kitchen’s glass doors.