It was the first Saturday of November 1999, the weekend of Australia’s republic referendum. A palpable sense of change and possibility was in the air. People were asking questions about our national identity, our evolving culture, about what this country could be.
It was also the weekend of the Sangiovese Challenge in Mildura, where a small group of wine judges, including your correspondent, gathered to taste as many Australian-made examples of the famous red grape of Tuscany as we could. It didn’t take us long: back then, only a handful of local producers were making sangiovese – or any other Italian varieties.