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Risky business: inside Neil Perry's 'comeback'

Risky business: inside Neil Perry's 'comeback'

Neil Perry was poised to buy back his premium restaurants when COVID-19 threw the industry into disarray. In the grip of a pandemic, what is there for a comeback king to come back to?

Brook Turner

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A lone jackhammer is all that keeps a pre-COVID beat on the walk to Neil Perry’s Rosetta Trattoria on Harrington Street in Sydney’s The Rocks, pulverising Sydney sandstone to make way for a new block of luxury apartments on which work began pre-bust.

By the logic of then, the inhabitants of The Harrington Collection – “58 living spaces of unrepeatable significance” – would have flowed down the street and into Perry’s upmarket eatery as inexorably as those of Harry Seidler’s nearby Cove, part of a rising tide of gentrification in the once working-class suburb.

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Original URL: https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/food-and-wine/risky-business-inside-neil-perry-s-comeback-20200415-p54k2m