You can see at a glance that James Cornwall loves cooking seafood. His entire right arm is heavily inked with the swirling tentacles of octopus, fish, seahorses, pirate ships and the odd mermaid. “Being a chef is a bit like being a pirate,” he laughs. Besides, the tattoo parlour was conveniently right next door to London’s venerable seafood institution, J Sheekey, where he began as a junior chef from New Zealand, rising to executive chef after nine years.

Now he’s head chef of the Vue du Monde Group's slinky, seafood-focused Iki-Jime, a cool, clubby restaurant in Melbourne's Little Collins Street that is so dimly lit, dishes appear to arrive at the table from the murky depths of the seabed.