Did you hear the one about the vegan who … no, you didn’t. Nobody makes jokes about vegans any more. Not since 2019, when the UN Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change said that if the people of the Western world reduced the amount of meat and dairy produce in their diet, more people could be fed, using less land.

And in the rarefied world of fine dining? Not since May, when Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park in New York announced that his restaurant would henceforth be 100 per cent vegan.