It’s the end of truffle season, and, boy, has it been big this year, with truffle festivals, truffle dogs and hunts, truffle products and $265-a-head dinners.
Nothing against the precious little black tubers, of course, but it does make you wonder: at what point do we hit peak truffle? I was noodling on this question when an email trumpeting the new season of another, rather less celebrated, culinary icon landed in my inbox.