From an imposing Imperial-sized bottle, the sommelier gingerly pours me a glass of 2019 Château d’Yquem, chilled between eight and 10 degrees, to accompany a dish of barbecued Port Fairy crayfish with Tokyo turnip and rose geranium.
It’s not everyday you get the chance to savour one of the world’s truly great wines by the glass with your lunch – almost never, in all honesty. But guests at Wickens, the fine diner at the Royal Mail Hotel in the Victorian town of Dunkeld, three hours’ drive west of Melbourne, can.
