In nearly every respect, Jessi Singh’s latest Indian restaurant is the epitome of the thoroughly modern fine diner. Due to open at the base of a ritzy apartment block in Melbourne’s Collingwood in July, pint-sized Aanya will boast a glamorous 16-seat kitchen counter, chefs with Michelin-starred CVs and a lengthy list of ultra-refined cocktails and mocktails, all made from scratch.

There’s just one thing missing at Aanya, at least according to the unwritten rules of the contemporary high-end dining scene.