Mat Lindsay has taken the beef tartare off the menu at Ester, his inner-suburban Sydney restaurant, and people are not happy. “I need to keep developing new ideas,” says Lindsay. “They should make it at home instead.”

He has included the recipe in his first cookbook, Ester, and we have negotiated the exclusive rights to share it here. Ester’s beef tartare isn’t just a recipe, but a template of what has become a modern classic – punchy, fresh and meaty.