People think they know London because they have been to all the latest restaurants, but that’s not how to get the best out of it. London is different to everywhere else. You have to go beyond the online lists and media guides. Some of the greatest places have been around for a long time, and there’s a reason for it. They’re real gems.

Places like Scott’s of Mayfair, which is my go-to for an easy, informal dinner on a night off. I always have the same order: Irish oysters, followed by Dover sole, potatoes and a rocket salad. It’s a great fish restaurant and a beautiful place to be, and it’s always, always full. And as chef Thomas Keller of New York’s Per Se once said to me, “a full restaurant is the most relevant restaurant”.