Ela restaurant at Hotel Alba, South Tce, Adelaide | SA Weekend restaurant review

Restaurants based inside hotels often struggle to attract diners beyond staying guests. But this new Adelaide venue is worth a visit simply for its insanely good dessert.

Ela at Hotel Alba is tucked away but well worth a visit. Pictures: Terence Chin Photography

A storm has hit our little piece of Santorini and rain puddles are forming on the deck around the pool.

The sun-drenched beaches of the Med aren’t the first thing coming to mind at Ela tonight, no matter what its website promises.

That said, even over-enthusiastic marketing departments can’t control the weather and this new restaurant in the equally new Hotel Alba on South Tce has plenty going for it.

For a start, this is one of the few places to eat in the city square where finding a street park is more likely than not, this time around a rock-star position right in front of the door.

Alba has a bit of a rock-star look itself, actually. Robbie Williams types would feel right at home.

The dated appearance of the former Grand Chifley has been transformed with a shimmering white facade and a new ground floor layout in which all paths lead to the pool.

The Mediterranean theme is strong throughout the new Hotel Alba and its Ela restaurant. Picture: Terence Chin Photography

Ela’s dining room and bar fills this space, and it has been furbished in the stylish manner one might expect from the boutique arm of the multinational hotel and leisure group EVT, the property owner.

Colours of ocean and beach are reflected in azure and steely blue upholstery framed by gorgeous golden Kit Kat tiles.

As for a “light-filled, open-air haven” (the website again), well … just try to ignore the ceiling.

As part of the redevelopment, EVT hired well-known local chef Nigel Rich (d’Arry’s Verandah, Elbow Room) to oversee the kitchens at Alba, as well as the neighbouring Terrace Hotel and HotelMOTEL – also part of the portfolio.

Inside the Ela dining room at the Hotel Alba on South Tce, Adelaide. Picture: Terence Chin Photography

The Mediterranean theme plays to his strong suit and the opening menu for Ela, produced in conjunction with head chef Ashleigh Lindner, does a neat job of weaving a few twists and turns into a selection of dishes that have mostly become part of the Australian culinary vernacular.

Oxtail pappardelle, Portuguese chicken and rib eye with tapenade will, no doubt, make plenty of friends.

But so should a scrumptious dip made from Yorke Peninsula white peas and roasted garlic. It certainly deserves better than the wedges of dull, less-than-fresh Turkish-style loaf that is served beside it.

Octopus carpaccio stands out as the most ambitious undertaking, even if the seafood isn’t raw as “carpaccio” usually signifies.

Some of the Mediterranean-inspired dishes on offer at Ela. Picture: Terence Chin Photography

Rather, the tentacle is poached, rolled and frozen so it can be cut into super-thin slices.

Laid out like an archipelago of little islands, these discs are finished with radish, pickled fennel, fried capers and pearls of yuzu juice that turn a Greek taverna plate into something more exotic.

Over to Spain for croquettes with a crunchy crumbed casing that breaks open to reveal an oozy filling of manchego-tinged bechamel thickened up with a little mashed potato.

Slender fillets of garfish are at their sparkling best in a lemon butter sauce that mingles with the juices of blistered cherry tomatoes.

Large flakes of dried bread play with the concept of panzanella salad but, in truth, it is the simplicity of fish, butter and tomato that wins the day.

Hotel restaurants struggle to attract diners beyond guests, but Ela is worth the visit. Picture: Terence Chin Photography

A 12-hour braised lamb shank stays true to the traditional script as well, with the sweet-sour punch of pomegranate molasses and a seamless spice blend powering the sauce, dried apricot for the fruit component, parsley, pine nuts and couscous to the side.

It’s a satisfying North African tagine for all intents and purposes.

On the side, the “wild” greens turn out to be very tame, not only because of the vegetables used (broccolini, asparagus etc) but also because they have been cooked into submission.

The idea of a large glass bowl of tiramisu to share, however, is worthy of a standing ovation.

Don’t worry about plates. Dig a spoon into the layers of whipped chocolate ganache, liqueur-soaked sponge and espresso mascarpone.

Watch for the giggles around the table from those who accidentally inhale the dusting of cocoa powder that gives this dessert the touch of bitterness to bring it into perfect balance.

Hotel restaurants without a street presence often struggle to attract diners who aren’t already staying there.

Given its out-of-the-way location, it isn’t surprising to see Ela has plenty of free tables. Hopefully, this column can help spread the word – at least until Robbie and his mates call by to soak up the sun.