The story behind the beautiful castle on a world-famous wine label

In the 1970s, Mateus Rosé was the epitome of cool; its curvy shape as much a style icon as the flares and shag-pile carpet of the era. I can still picture my mother on the morning after a dinner party, repurposing the empty bottle into a candle holder and displaying it proudly on the sideboard, its dripping wax adding an air of Euro-sophistication to our humble suburban home.

Portugal’s Mateus Palace.Credit: Adobe

Decades later I’m in the Douro Valley in Portugal standing in front of Mateus Castle, the 18th-century baroque mansion that adorns every Mateus Rosé label. While its grand facade and manicured gardens hint at a noble past, the story of Mateus Rosé is less a fairytale and more a story of wartime ingenuity and bold ambition.

It began in 1942 during World War II when a young innovator named Fernando van Zeller Guedes had a vision for a new style of table wine. “The war was on, and port wine wasn’t selling well,” says guide Jesus Ribeiro. “So Guedes decided to develop a sweet, slightly sparkling wine that would appeal to a broader, international market.”

In a stroke of marketing genius, Guedes introduced two key elements: a flask-shaped bottle, modelled on the water canteens of World War I soldiers, and a charming label, inspired by the grandeur and elegance of Mateus Castle.

Guedes struck a deal with the estate – grapes from the vineyard and the rights to use the palace’s image – and went on to found Sogrape Vinhos, now Portugal’s biggest wine company. Thanks to his novel approach, which is still a talking point in PR circles today, Mateus Rosé became a global brand, producing more than 40 million bottles annually during its peak. And now, says Jesus, it’s enjoying a resurgence with lighter, drier options. “Mateus is back in fashion,” he says.

Guided by nostalgia… a bottle of Mateus Rosé and apple crumble.

We are midway through our nine-day Douro Delights tour aboard APT’s newest river cruise ship, the MS Estrela, where every day brings fresh discoveries. We have sampled vintage ports in one of the oldest port wine houses in the world, but we’ve also tasted some of the region’s fresher, drier “new” table wines. One day, we visit Pinhao railway station, known as the most beautiful station in Portugal, and on another we tour a medieval village. It’s through APT’s inclusive Freedom of Choice excursions that guests can customise their holiday to suit their interests.

In Regua, it’s Mateus Castle that piques mine, for no other reason than nostalgia – that irresistible force that so often shapes our journeys.

Autumn leaves crunch underfoot as we make our way through the entrance park towards the castle, its symmetrical beauty mirrored in the calm waters of the reflection pond. Built between 1739 and 1744 for Antonio Jose Botelho Mourao, the third Morgado of Mateus, the estate’s history of winemaking dates back centuries. Its wine cellar, still in use, originates from the 16th century.

Our excursion includes a guided visit of the chapel and free time to wander around the perimeter of the castle, central courtyard and 26 hectares of historic gardens.

Garden magic in the form of a labyrinth of box hedges in the castle grounds.Credit: Adobe

First, I stock up on supplies from the cafe – a wedge of apple crumble, made on-site from the estate’s orchard, and a small bottle of Mateus Rosé, now in a clear bottle rather than green to better show off its pink glow.

Walking alone, I weave through the labyrinth of box hedges towards the cedar tunnel, where twisted branches arch like human limbs. The path leads me to the Zen-inspired painted garden, and as I near the estate’s boundaries I come across the knotted old vines of the Mateus vineyards. Though the grapes for Mateus Rosé now come from further afield, these gnarled trunks embody centuries of winemaking tradition.

I unpack my picnic-for-one, the wine’s blush reflecting the changing colour of the leaves. On the palate, there’s a youthful energy with hints of nostalgia and notes of ’70’s vinyl. More than a drink, it’s a rose-tinted window into simpler, groovier times.

The details

Cruise
APT’s nine-day Douro Delights tour from Madrid to Porto (also operates in reverse) costs from $7095 a person (flights not included). The itinerary is inclusive of one night’s land accommodation and seven nights onboard the MS Estrela. All meals, a wide range of onboard beverages, Wi-Fi, comprehensive sightseeing tours, Freedom of Choice experiences and Signature Experiences included. See aptouring.com

Fly
Etihad Airways operates daily flights out of Australia, connecting through Abu Dhabi to Madrid and other European cities. See etihad.com

The writer was a guest of APT.