The lost-in-time Paris restaurants where you can eat for less than €10

It’s widely accepted that Pierre-Louis Duval, butcher to the rich, opened Paris’ first bouillon in the mid-19th century. I imagine the queue snaked down the street then, much like the one that tests my patience today. The reason? A winning formula of cheap, decent food served at breakneck speed in a beautiful setting.

By the 1900s, more than 250 bouillons, restaurants specialising in traditional French dishes, served quickly, bustled across Paris. They offered nourishing broths (the namesake of “bouillon”) among other classic French dishes to working-class Parisians.

Bouillon Julien – a grand experience without the price tag.

The winds of change, however, weren’t kind to bouillons. The Belle Epoque rolled in, and Paris’ elite retreated to a gilded cage of frivolity and fantasy. Their fancy new tastes demanded grander settings like upscale brasseries and bistros with expensive wine lists and duck à l’orange arranged like an edible still life. By 2000, only Bouillon Chartier remained, a lone survivor clinging to a bygone era.

Fast-forward to today, and Paris is experiencing a bouillon revival. Ten-strong, these bastions of hearty French meals are reclaiming their place on the city streets. One such is Bouillon Pigalle, where I join a queue of locals and tourists, all united by the promise of cheap steak frites and even cheaper wine.

After five minutes of battling hunger pangs in the queue, I remember the reservation I made the night before. I grab my fiance and weave through the famished line. Stares.

Inside, servers in crisp white aprons and black silk vests glide like ballerinas. Diners on red banquettes sit elbow to elbow with strangers, and the low hum of voices blends into comforting background noise, making it difficult to distinguish any one conversation from the others.

The table is cramped but before doubt can fully form, the waiter whisks it out, deftly manouveres me in, and slots the table back into place with practised ease. The next couple receive the same swift seating choreography.

Feast for the senses and the stomach – Bouillon Pigalle.

The menu explains the crowd. French onion soup (€3.80)? Yes, please. An oversized portion of steak frites (€12.60)? Don’t mind if I do. Even dessert – a poached pear overflowing with vanilla ice-cream (€4.80) – arrives with an urgency. Lunch is served and devoured in under an hour, a testament to both the deliciousness and the efficiency.

The key ingredient behind a bouillon’s affordability? High volume, explain brothers Pierre and Guillaume Moussie, owners of Bouillon Pigalle and Republique. Pigalle, with 300 seats, caters to both reservations and walk-ins, while Republique, a 450-seater, thrives on a first-come, first-served basis. Both operate from noon to midnight, seven days a week, feeding more than 1000 diners daily.

But Parisians know bouillons aren’t just about the food. Duval set the standard when he opened his doors, outfitting the space in a grandeur style – brass rails, period mouldings and ceramic tiles.

Bouillon Pigalle has a 21st-century atmosphere.

At Pigalle, the Moussie brothers envisioned a bold new chapter for the bouillon. Local event posters splash across support poles while greenery and modern orb lights create a vibrant, 21st-century atmosphere. Bouillon Republique, in contrast, proudly retains its historic brasserie charm. But for a true immersion in Parisian Art Nouveau, join the queue outside Bouillon Julien.

Often labelled as Paris’ most beautiful restaurant, the cavernous dining room is a feast for the eyes. Iconic celadon green, the colour of the roaring 20s, washes over the space. Ornate floor tiles draw your gaze upwards to peacock murals, all framed by period mouldings. It’s a full-fledged Art Nouveau masterpiece, a far cry from the modern interpretation found at Bouillon Pigalle.

“The concept took a slight detour in the 1970s,” says current owner Jean-Noel Dron, “when the owner transformed Bouillon Julien into a ‘Grande’ brasserie, offering pricier fare.” Thankfully, the 2016 renovation marked a welcome return to Julien’s roots. “We embraced the historic motto – ‘beautiful, delicious and cheap’ – and revived the original bouillon concept.”

Queues or no queues, don’t expect leisurely lunches or fancy plating. The service hums like a well-oiled machine, ensuring full plates and friendly prices. And that, in the heart of Paris, is a beautiful thing.

The details

Eat
Bouillon Pigalle and Bouillon Republique, see bouillonlesite.com
Bouillon Julien, see bouillon-julien.com

Fly
Qantas operates flights from Sydney to Paris via Perth. Starting July 12, 2024, direct flights between Perth and Paris will run four times a week.
See qantas.com.au

Stay
Hotel Florida is a new hotel in the 8th arrondissement, near shops, restaurants and major attractions. A classic room from €229 a night (taxes and fees included).
See hotelfloridaparis.com

The writer travelled at her own expense.