In one of Europe’s most expensive cities, here’s how to get a great value meal

When René Redzepi opened Noma in 2003, he didn’t just launch a restaurant – he ruined the Danish capital for the rest of us. Five times crowned the “world’s best restaurant”, Noma didn’t just place the Danish capital on the global culinary map – it made the city the map.

All in – “fællesspisning” or communal dining at Folkehuset Absalon.

Since then, Copenhagen has been awash with Michelin stars and high-end dining, drawing chefs, critics, and culinary pilgrims like moths to a very expensive flame. The result? A flood of fine-dining spots, each dishing up something creamy, bright or delicately quenelled. Even a humble cardamom bun feels like a splurge.

So, unless you’ve got DKK300 ($65) to spare every time you leave the hotel, Copenhagen’s celebrated food scene can feel less like a vibrant culinary community and more like an exclusive club. That’s why I decided to follow the locals to a different kind of club – where the Danish concept of fællesspisning (more on this later) is making a well-timed comeback.

Folkehuset Absalon is a repurposed church turned community hall in Vesterbro, a neighbourhood where locals and clued-in travellers mingle among sleek design shops and trendy brewpubs. Inside, the walls glow a soft peachy pink, and a bright red stage arch anchors the room. Even the tables, clustered into long communal rows, are colour co-ordinated.

On my way in, I dodge a lively ping pong match and a pair of kids doing laps around the room. At the counter, I hand over DKK120 ($27) for lunch for two, served on classic cafeteria trays – unpretentious, no-nonsense.

Folkehuset Absalon is a repurposed church turned community hall.

I scan the packed dining room, tray in hand until I spot two open chairs next to a couple hunched over laptops. Most people here are working or scribbling in notebooks, but they pause to nod hello as we sit. Our meal, a generous bowl of hot and sour soup with yellow rice and vegetables, is straightforward but delicious and warming.

Over lunch, I overhear snippets of English and Danish. It’s tough to tell who the tourists are – maybe we’re the only ones. The couple beside us put their laptops away and strike up a conversation. We don’t swap names, but we talk about Copenhagen’s soaring prices and the growing appeal of spots like Absalon.

“Copenhagen is social,” one says, “but it’s also pricey. Places like this let us be social at a reasonable price.”

This act of dining with strangers isn’t just a novelty, it’s an old Danish tradition known as fællesspisning, which translates to “people eating together”, explains Folkehuset Absalon manager Alexander Prout.

“Nothing groundbreaking,” he admits. “We’re just bringing back an old tradition and calling it social dining in English. It’s simpler that way.”

Kanalhuset, located in Christianshavn, offers a similar communal dinner concept.

At its heart, fællesspisning is about breaking barriers – cultural, social, or even linguistic – by creating a communal space where anyone can belong.

Prout describes Absalon as a “living room away from home”, and it feels like one. Relaxed, inviting, and delightfully unpretentious.

Absalon also hosts a full slate of activities – morning yoga, ceramics workshops, even baby sensory programs – making it a hub of community life. Lunch is served daily, but the real highlight is the fællesspisning dinner at 6pm, when 200 strangers gather around communal tables for a shared meal.

“Food is served in large bowls or plates, and everyone takes what they want,” Prout explains. “It’s like a home-cooked dinner. You pass dishes around, share, and talk. Sometimes, we’ll ask people to help cut bread or carve the chicken. It gets people interacting.”

The tradition remains popular among locals, but Prout has noticed more tourists in recent years, particularly in summer when locals flee the city. “I think it helps visitors feel less like tourists and more like part of the city, even if just for a few days,” he says. However, he recommends booking tickets well in advance, as dinners sell out nightly, though eight seats are always reserved for walk-ins.

“The whole point,” he says, “is to inspire others to see what we do and replicate it.” And that’s already occurring.

Kanalhuset, located in Christianshavn, offers a similar concept. Alongside its hotel and apartments, visitors can join communal dinners at 7pm for DKK150 ($35) a person. For something lighter, their sandwiches go for DKK85 ($19) each.

Back in Vesterbro, Madglad offers another take on communal dining. Open Monday to Friday from 4.30 to 9pm, it serves up an all-you-can-eat daily special with a mix of salads, hummus, and bread – all for just DKK85.

As I finish my soup and carry my tray back to the kitchen like everyone else, I realise fællesspisning offers a luxury you won’t find on a Michelin-starred menu — connection.

THE DETAILS

EAT
Folkehuset Absalon accepts walk-ins for lunch daily (DKK60/$13) and strongly recommends booking dinner tickets well in advance. Dinner is DKK60, Sunday to Wednesday and DKK100 Thursday to Saturday. See absaloncph.dk
Kanalhuset offers lunch (DKK85) and communal dinners (DKK150) seven days. See kanalhusetcph.com
Madglad serves meals Monday to Friday, 4.30pm to 8.30pm for DKK110 eat-in or from DKK75 for takeaway. See madglad.net

STAY
Coco Hotel is a stylish boutique hotel within walking distance of Vesterbro and the Meatpacking District. Small double rooms from DKK985 ($220) a night, with a daily complimentary wine hour in the cafe downstairs. See coco-hotel.com

FLY
Turkish Airlines operates flights from Sydney to Copenhagen via Istanbul. See turkishairlines.com

The writer dined at her own expense.