Now open: old-world glamour arrives at Perth’s finest beachside address

There’s a lot to take in the first time you walk into Gibney, George Kailis’s daring brasserie perched on Marine Terrace overlooking South Cottesloe beach.

The king’s ransom of whisky and other high-end spirits that populate the bar by the entrance. The room’s soaring ceiling, held up by pale, lustrous columns that have been fastidiously buffed and polished with a Venetian plaster finish. The dapper staff, looking all resplendent in tailored white jackets and skinny black ties. The luxurious textures of everything, from the plush banquettes to the crisp linen of the double-dressed tables.

In the lead-up to Gibney’s May opening, Kailis was fond of comparing the look and feel of the restaurant to that of a six-star hotel lobby. Now that the tradies are out and the doors have finally opened, the public can finally pick up what Kailis was putting down.

But while Gibney nails the brief for luxe, high-end dining, even more important to Kailis and co is that the finished product is worthy of its primetime location.

“We couldn’t have done Gibney anywhere else,” says Kailis. “It had to be in Cottesloe. Cottesloe is our most recognised, well-known beach. Not just among West Australians, but among all Australians.”

Of course, a restaurant is about more than just high-end finishes and a pretty floor plan. Just as Kailis spared seemingly zero expense with the look of Gibney, he’s also recruited some serious talent to make sure there’s substance to go along with that six-star, seaside style.

James Gentile, formerly of Heritage Wine Bar and Bobeche, has come aboard as Gibney’s bar manager while former Lulu La Delizia sommelier Luca Fiori has accepted the vital role of restaurant manager.

Nicole Wewiorski, meanwhile, has been chosen by Kailis Hospitality Group wine director Nina Throsby, to manage and deliver Gibney’s producer-centric wine offering. (From Champagne to key Australian and international styles, every category celebrates key producers by selecting and highlighting five wines from their range.)

A signature Gibson martini service featuring house-made garnishes (smoked onions, pickled onions and pickled cherry tomatoes) and a neat DIY dripper bottle of smoky Islay Ardbeg whisky speaks to Gibney’s classic approach to wining and dining, as does the aperitif and digestif trolley that gets wheeled around the dining room.

The well-written wine list is as informative as it is exhilarating. While there might be a Monopoly money-esque quality to some of the prices, Wewiorski and Throsby have also filled the cellar with more accessible drinking options.

Finally there’s the kitchen. Head pastry chef Richard Dormer – recently of Como The Treasury – is in charge of desserts and baked goods, while junior sous chef Steven Ellis will oversee the wood-fired grill. Then there’s James Cole Bowen, Gibney’s head chef and the driving force behind the restaurant’s classically-minded, brasserie-inspired cooking.

Oysters Pacific (left) and Kilpatrick (right).

Oysters Kilpatrick get taken to a new place through the magic of the assertive Korean chilli paste gochujang and fine, golden fried shallots. Nubbins of tempura-fried eggplant sharpened with vinegar powder get played off against cured kingfish to provide a different take on fish and chips. Chimichurri puts a contemporary spin on nicely handled sirloin that comes off the grill tender and charred.

Asian elements work their way into the menu constantly and with pleasing results. A meaty tranche of toothfish lolling in a fragrant, soy broth feels Cantonese in its simplicity, while grilled cabbage leaves interlaced with a punchy XO sauce proves vegetarians don’t have to miss out on barbecue good times.

Like I was saying, there’s a lot to take in when you go to Gibney. Which, in a way, is kind of the point. This is a restaurant that is designed to shock and awe and, for most of us, isn’t going to be an everyday prospect. But even at this early stage of its career, Gibney looks set to be one of Perth’s go-tos for that big night – or big day – out. Whether you’re a local or visiting from further afield.

Gibney Cottesloe is at 40 Marine Parade, Cottesloe and is open from 12pm to 10pm daily.

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