The May 24 Edition
I’m always mildly amused when food critics – usually the overseas kind – airily dismiss the notion of an Australian cuisine. It’s such a Euro-centric criticism. Apart from the fact Indigenous people developed their own richly varied cuisine here for more than 50,000 years, modern Australian cuisine has evolved into one of the most diverse in the world, reflecting our rich cultural mix – although it wouldn’t hurt if we took more creative and commercial risks with our abundance of native foods. For quality of produce, for variety of high-calibre restaurants and truly brilliant wines, you can’t go past Australia. Our food and wine edition this year is jam-packed with features. My favourites? Andrew Hornery’s story on Australia’s queen of pickles, and Dani Valent’s ode to wheat and the joy of fresh bread. But you won’t want to miss Huon Hooke’s and The Real Review’s list of the 20 Best Wineries in Australia and our Six Best Wines – something to keep for future weekends away. – Greg Callaghan, acting editor
Australia’s 20 top wineries – and six best wines – of 2025
More than 400 wineries were surveyed and 10,000 wines tasted for this year’s The Real Review Top Wineries list. Here: the cream of that crop.
- by Huon Hooke
‘You don’t know what you’re missing out on’: Meet Australia’s new Mrs Thrifty
There’s a new generation of people finding fresh reasons to preserve their homegrown food.
- by Andrew Hornery
What shortage? Australia’s bumper olive oil season – and one company’s American dream
As local growers welcome a great year for olive oil, the country’s largest producer is poised to reap another golden harvest – in America.
- by Ardyn Bernoth
‘Real straight-shooter’: Lady Chu’s founder is famously brusque. She has her reasons
She has a reputation for being abrupt and impatient, but Nahji Chu is a survivor who’s built a flourishing Vietnamese food empire.
- by By Sue Williams
In 100 years, one wheat-farming family had never tasted their own flour – until now
Who’s the grower behind that delicious sourdough baguette? Some wheat farmers are choosing to stay small and nurture local niche markets.
- by By Dani Valent
At one of Australia’s oldest wineries, two siblings are 2025’s champion vignerons
Yeringberg’s Sandra and David de Pury are quietly building on the 160-year-old legacy of their Swiss baron great-grandfather.
- by Ardyn Bernoth
Dancing leeks, oozing cake: Homegrown talent at the World Food Photography awards
The entries for the awards poured in from more than 70 countries – here’s our selection from the 17 Aussies who made this year’s shortlist.
Two of Us
For subscribers
‘I’d be cruel’: Thi tried to push J.Y. away, then the reason came out
The partners in business and life have helped each other cope with neurodiversity and lingering trauma while running Anchovy, their Melbourne restaurant.
- by Dani Valent
Dicey Topics
For subscribers
Former MasterChef favourite Marion Grasby’s cooking commandments
The businesswoman, TV presenter and cookbook author on an ideal date-night menu, culinary authenticity – and finding the sublime in food.
- by Benjamin Law
Modern Guru
Modern Guru
Excitement! Resent! A letter’s exclamation marks reveal their own story
It’s a question about who gets what after a separation; in answering it, our Modern Guru notes the writer’s choice of punctuation.
- by Danny Katz
Hack books
Marco dreamed of owning a bookstore and spending his days talking to customers (invariably hot, librarian types) about literature. As a trial run, he erected a colourful street library outside his fence, curating it with copies of his favourite novels. That these didn’t fly off the shelves exasperated him. “Illiterates!” he’d rave to anyone who’d listen. Worse, locals dumped some absolute dross in his boutique bibliotheque – books he simply wouldn’t be associated with. Between time spent culling such wretched tomes, and the lack of bookish beauties lingering library-side, he wondered if the book business was all it was cracked up to be. – Words by Paul Connolly. Illustration by Jim Pavlidis.
Without pregnancy cravings, the Dubai chocolate bar wouldn’t have been born
Plus: Get ready for the weekend with these fresh diversions.
- by Deborah Cooke, Sharon Bradley, Barry Divola, Frances Mocnik, Louise Rugendyke and Melanie Kembrey
Perfect PJs: The restful middle ground between snooze-worthy and nightmarish
For sleepwalkers, share-house dwellers and more, donning conscious nightwear could be as important a part of the evening ritual as hot milk and snore strips.
- by Damien Woolnough
This nutty ingredient will take your carrot cake to the next level
A missing ingredient led Helen Goh to improvise this winning update to the classic cake.
- by Helen Goh
Review
Barrenjoey House
This landmark guesthouse is one of Sydney’s oldest restaurants. Is it still worth the drive?
The century-old Barrenjoey House at Palm Beach welcomes day-trippers seeking water views and dolled-up versions of pub and cafe standards.
- by Callan Boys
Review
Berbeo Bar & Grill
This surprising steakhouse serves limousine food at rust-bucket prices
Juan Berbeo of Berbeo Bar & Grill isn’t our best-known steak specialist, but it’s hard to imagine many local chefs have cooked as much meat as he has.
- by Dani Valent
When it comes to dinner plates, it’s not hip to be square
My heart stubbornly belongs to the plain, round white plate.
- by Terry Durack
Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/national/the-may-24-edition-20250428-p5luoe.html