Remember the days of the long lunch? No, me neither. History books tell us that in the age of the dinosaur – circa 1980s – the business lunch started at 1pm and went all day. This was before the poor old dears were wiped out by the FBT and the GFC, of course. Then we all had to WFH and lunch became LOL (leftover lasagne) at the kitchen bench. Now it seems we’ve entered the age of the short lunch. This is what happens when you still want all the good things about going out to dine but have neither the time nor the money.

Savvy restaurateurs have been quick to respond to market forces by launching express-lunch menus, and diners are responding in kind because they know exactly what they’ll get and how much it will cost. In Melbourne, Kisumé Japanese restaurant does a good set lunch – chicken katsu don, say, and miso soup – for under $30.

By all means, add an order of toro sashimi and caviar for $88.50, as long as you realise that could net you three more express lunches instead. Exhibition Street newcomer Juni opened with a firm offer of four small, snacky plates featuring chef Michael Lambie’s south-east Asian favourites – and a beer – for $42. Whether you go solo or take a group, that’s a smart deal.

In North Sydney, corporate hotspot Poeticagoes express with a choice of main course and a glass of wine or beer for $49. Alfie’s, from Sydney’s Liquid & Larder team, even promises a sizzling 220-gram sirloin steak on your table in 15 minutes for $39. I also like the sound of lunch at the Oxo Tower Bar in London, with its clearly stated “One Course, One Drink, One Hour” offer for £18 (about $38).

Most places will offer one course, some will package up two and others will throw in a drink. Almost all will peg it to weekdays because nobody in their right mind would want an express lunch on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Long story short, it’s a trend with the potential to reshape the weekly ebb and flow of the restaurant business, away from its traditional heavy trade at the end of the working week. Not by defaulting to fast food, but by offering good food, fast.

theemptyplate@goodweekend.com.au