Enter to a chorus of ‘buona sera!’ from a posse of effusive waiters eager to please. Seating is crammed and convivial, indoors or out. Two domed copper-lined pizza ovens churn out ninety-second wonders under wall-hanging photos of Sophia Loren and a Maradona-signed Napoli jersey. The caprese is a perfectly balanced mix of fresh tomato and buffalo mozzarella, the crust flecked with scorch marks. The calzone is packed with a swirl of ricotta and ham. Whichever pizza you choose, the crust is soft yet chewy, as pliable as a Berlusconi promise, only much more rewarding. Pizza heaven.