After extensive renovations - described by locals as a bit Sydney - the Lake George Hotel's aim of being a gastropub is plain. The menu reflects this in a slightly schizophrenic way. There's a large pizza selection, but also a raft of gourmet Gidleigh meats and Thirlmere free-range organic chook. The Gidleigh certified Angus steak with green beans and dauphinoise potato lived up to the billing, while the organic chicken sent our companion into juice-induced raptures. The food and the room have what it takes to dazzle but are let down by a lack of staff consistency: dishes sit on the pass too long and sometimes arrive in the wrong order.