Things looked up in Bermi when the Philip Cox-designed Fishermen's Wharf opened in late 2009. It's a beautiful integration of tradition and simple contemporary lines. It's also become a focal point, not least for an evening drink and a rich-crusted pizza - with mushrooms, rosemary and taleggio, perhaps - from this friendly, wood-beamed, Italian-inspired upstairs eating house. Egg-shaped table lights, walls in basil green, mozzarella-white wood and tomato-red banquettes are right on theme. So is the smartly presented menu, shaped around local produce. A fritto misto with garlic mayo is light and pretty, while expertly formed ricotta gnocchetti with spanner crab and pancetta is rich but appealing. There may be firm blue-eye with a pungent herb crust and sweet red peperonata; or good steak with fennel, salsa verde, mash and beetroot. Oven craft shines with a spectacular pear and almond tart, filled with frangipane cream, rosemary and caramelised fig.