As Sydney's South Asian restaurants drift upmarket, decor dominated by lurid travel posters and Rajasthani mirror work is becoming less common. In stripped-back spaces such as this one the focus is on the food. Goat karahi has tender chunks of meat on the bone in gravy sweet with black cardamom. Soft slices of bitter gourd, sauteed leafy vegetables and green chilli make karela masala a taste and texture sensation. Vegie biryani and buttery wholemeal spirals of lachhedaar paratha are a satisfying alternative to the inevitable naan. The ras malai (pillows of reduced milk in a creamy sauce) is still the best in town. Also 5 Good Street, Granville 9637 8400 and 538 Princes Highway, Rockdale 9599 6860.