For this carnivore with a jaded palate that's greedy for salt, butter and sugar, John Lam's ''vegan and fusion raw food'' proves novel. The sign above his tiny one-man show proclaims all things gluten-, sugar- and animal-product free. The menu is comprehensive but what's actually available on any given day depends on what Lam has to hand.

The base of the day's raw vegetarian pizza ($15) is a nest of crunchy, grated, reconstituted sweet potato and carrot topped with olives, capers, minced coconut and tomato, which proves surprisingly intense.

The mung bean fettucine ($15), topped with endive and coconut milk is tasty and refreshing and comes with a bright salad of carrot, coriander, cabbage and sprouts. It fairly screams nutritional value.

Everything Lam brings to the table is beautifully presented, creative, colourful and fresh but will not be to everyone's taste and the menu is a bit pricey. Anyone with allergies, a serious commitment to vegetables or a yen for novelty, however, should definitely give it a try.

Green Lizard Vegan & Fusion Raw Food Cafe

Address 20/230 William Street, Kings Cross, 0402 918 653.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30-3.30pm, 6pm-9pm (10pm Fri); Sat 1.30-3.30pm, 6pm-9pm.