On the outskirts of Warragul, undulating rows of grapevines and olive trees usher visitors to one of Gippsland's oldest vineyards. It is also home to a winery restaurant that deftly balances the demands of locals marking special occasions with the expectations of discerning diners from further afield. The main menu is divided into 'sea', 'paddock', 'earth' and 'charcuterie' and there's a key to ingredient codes (such as 'cgc. contains gelatine components'). For diners daunted by the format, informed and personable waitstaff are never far away. From the 'sea' come seared Hervey Bay scallops matched with a splash of cauliflower puree, shaved asparagus and curry veloute - a delicate catch. The 'paddock' might hatch truffle-seasoned chicken roulade with purees of mushroom and garlic, and lightly buttered asparagus tips. Desserts include artful confections such as blackberry yoghurt sorbet, mascarpone cheesecake, cardamom meringue dust and violet jelly.