The Chambers is housed in one of the town's prominent heritage buildings: an impressive 1880s former bank. But, for a fine diner, the atmosphere is casual, with undressed tables and spare wall furnishings, which leaves room for some of the original decorative features to charm almost by stealth. Similarly, dishes aren't technically overcomplicated, but the consistency of the kitchen's offerings is impressive. Entrees like quail with green grapes and shredded red cabbage, and goat's cheese ravioli with burnt butter and sage set the tone. Nicely browned lemon and oregano chicken quarter with warm potato salad is a contemporary evocation of the Sunday roast; equally gratifying is confit duck leg with white bean and smoky bacon cassoulet. A steamed orange pudding may lack intensity, but a baked fondant with oozing chocolate filling proves richly satisfying. Smart service is a feature, making for a smooth operation that caters equally well for a relaxed meal or special night out.