The ineluctable joys of the bottomless brunch are spreading to greater Melbourne, now reaching Highett with newcomer Sons of Mischief. Opened by Dean Fourtzis and Rishit Patel, co-owners of Armadale's Street Talk Espresso, it's a south-eastern neighbourhood hangout advocating a yin/yang scenario, with a menu built around the twin pillars of health and hedonism.

Space

A converted shop has been streamlined with a simple white-on-white-on-yellow scheme, which feels light, bright and inviting. There's de rigueur greenery cascading from pots and a vivid neon sign declaiming, "Don't tell me what to do unless you're naked." Yikes.

Food

The buttermilk pancakes have been hogging Instagram: served in a high-rise stack with Nutella cream, warm maple syrup, hazelnuts and fresh berries, they're a day's worth of calories in one delicious hit. Prawn bao, starring punchy ginger-garlic prawns and jalapeno mayo, hit the lunchtime pleasure receptors, while a Dr Marty's crumpet ballasts an eggs benedict with maple bacon, smoked hollandaise (or you can sub in a potato roesti). Kids are covered, too. By way of a gateway drug, the kids' menu has a baby smashed avo on toast with a poached egg ($12). The Greek and Middle Eastern influences that filter through the main menu extend to the sides, with the likes of saganaki with oregano and lemon yours for an additional $5.50 or a mild sujuk and house-made hummus a snip at $5.

Coffee

Beans are by Niccolo Coffee Roasters in Prahran, best known for their fidelity to the classic morning heart-starter. The house blend is a one-two punch of hazelnut and honeycomb, and great with milk (or almond, soy or coconut milk). There's also a filter and bulletproof option, and Koko Deluxe hot chocolate.

Drinks

Bottomless brunching does not take place in the absence of alcohol, and Sons of Mischief has its fundamentals in order on that front. For $50 you get an item off the breakfast menu chased by limitless espresso martinis, mimosas, beer (Furphy, Corona and James Squires), cider and big-name wine for two hours. If you're more into the bayside body beautiful, go for a protein-added coconut lemon smoothie instead.

Loving The munificence of the sides adds a build-your-own feast aspect to an already broad menu.

Not getting The nudity-espousing neon may look on-trend but it's just a little odd, especially before the first coffee of the day has had time to work its nerve-soothing magic.

Vegan factor Plenty in this department, including a vegie bowl and vegan burger.

Overheard "They paid how much for their house?"

Caffe latte $4