If it weren’t for the warm lighting illuminating Tooronga Road, you might drive past Pizza Religion and never experience the friendly service, a la mode brick walls with timber panelling, or thin-crust pizza worthy of sinful idolisation. Pepperoni lovers won’t be disappointed, but epicurean alternatives – such as luscious braised beef cheek paired with sweet celeriac puree or caramelised roast lamb with feta and olive tapenade – are cause to rejoice. Arancini of the day makes a superior starter, while dense and saucy flourless chocolate pudding is a nod to gluttony. Perhaps we’re preaching to the converted: tables book out nightly.