Having tested the waters 'south of the river', Amal and Geoff Malouf have returned. There's a sense of homecoming at this reincarnated Zum Zum; a warm welcome, a happy buzz as small groups dip into mezze platters of baba ghanoush and creamy hummus. Colourful lanterns cast a soft glow on old favourites such as crisp filo rolls of cinnamon lamb drizzled with pomegranate syrup. Mains to share: tender chicken tagine or slow-cooked lamb shoulder, served with plump, lemon-infused cous cous. To finish, try ice-cream studded with pistachios and halva. It's enough to make anyone come back.