Atria, the restaurant on the 80th floor of the new Ritz-Carlton, Melbourne, is now open to locals keen to see their city from above and showcased on the plate.

Opening solely to hotel guests last month, the spectacularly appointed restaurant, with views from Mount Macedon to Port Melbourne, is striving to win the hearts of Melburnians by operating on the same principles as the city’s best restaurants, based on direct relationships with suppliers and nose-to-tail cooking.

“We literally started out from the beginning with the idea that we were going to be a local restaurant, and an essential local restaurant,” says Mark Best, who is culinary advisor, while Michael Greenlaw (ex-Vue de Monde, Bibendum, London) is executive chef.

The ace in Atria’s hand is the big hotel budget that affords statements such as a 19-metre Victorian ash bar, built so that chefs are at the same level as guests seated in red club chairs. There’s also a pastry kitchen in the dining room, with ovens that waft fresh-baked aromas over tables.

This theatre matches the drama of the view, together threatening to distract from executive chef Greenlaw’s menu, although he is putting up a good fight.

The meat and coral (roe) of Tasmanian giant crab partner with chawanmushi. The shellfish also appears in a smoked eel tart alongside Oscietra caviar and potato tuile, using eel from Skipton in central Victoria.

Other local produce includes Blackmore wagyu, Khaki Campbell ducks from Geelong, and a crudo plate showcasing lesser-seen species such as boarfish or banded morwong, sourced by Two Hands from Victorian waters.

Greenlaw says using the best produce from Victoria is his focus, as well as working with the seven seasons of the local Indigenous calendar.

The L-shaped dining room has 92 seats, with double-vaulted ceilings that expand the views. White-clothed tables, dark timbers and deep upholstered chairs join dramatic lighting installations.

Cameo cocktail bar is located on the same level, with a list written by The Everleigh’s Michael and Zara Madrusan.

Greenlaw chose Best as his culinary advisor. The veteran chef, who closed his two-hatted Sydney restaurant, Marque, in 2016, travels to Melbourne as needed. Greenlaw has been joined in the kitchen by rising stars Allan Eccles (ex Gimlet), pastry chef Kay-Lene Tan (ex Tonka) and Sarah Cremona (ex Pt. Leo). Set menus and lunch are currently under development.

Open daily 6pm-9pm.

650 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, 03 9122 2888, ritzcarlton.com