Essendon's Keilor Road and China's Silk Road have little in common, except both are memorable Chinese destinations. The former gives us China Max, a polished, welcoming and thoroughly appealing Chinese fine diner. Formally dressed waiters with ready smiles escort diners to smartly dressed tables and present the menu. huge, of course. Start small. Maybe fragrant, delicate Sichuan pork dumplings or finely minced prawns and crabmeat, pressed into a claw and deep-fried; tiny, sweet scallops nestled in a tangle of fine vermicelli and crisp spring onions are a refined option. Ribs feature, from slow-braised in claypots to deep-fried and slathered in a sticky Mandarin sauce. A complex XO elevates stir-fried chicken and Peking duck is elegantly served tableside. Chinese restaurant desserts are often best filed in the 'Oh, I couldn't' category, but here you can; the snow-white steamed custard buns are worth it.